Winterized Voyager

Winter is here and for most seasonal RVers, this means time to prepare for freezing temperatures.  In an RV as in any other home, water sits in many places and if it freezes can cause lots of damage.  With our home, we keep the heat on at all times so there's no chance of freezing.  Since most of us don't keep the heat in our RVs operating during the winter months sitting at home, we have to take some precautions to prevent damage.  This is called "winterizing."  Places that can freeze in my RV, Voyager, are PEX lines (water lines), outside water sediment filter bowl, inside water drinking filters bowls, storage tanks (black, gray, and fresh), water heater, water pump, macerator pump (sewage pump), and the washer/dryer combo.

I begin by opening the low-point drain.  This drain is a simple valve that is supposed to be the lowest point of the water system and when pulled, should let most of the water out of Voyager.  It does, but not all places water hides.  Next, I pull the fresh water tank valve so all the fresh water tank water can drip out.  This is necessary so I can operate the water pump to empty.  If I left water in the tank, the pump would just draw more water and not empty.  I have already verified the black and gray tanks are empty, but if a little water is in them, not a biggie as it has plenty of ability to swell as it freezes--kind of like ice cube trays.  Next, I remove the water heater anode which drains the water heater and I leave it out.  I remove all the filters and the macerator pump and put in a warmed area of the house (laundry room).  I dry run the water pump to push any water out.  Next, I hook up my air compressor to the RV water inlet valve.  Each faucet is closed at this point.  I engage the air pump and push water out of the water heater, then add the anode and seal it finger tight.  Next, open the kitchen faucet and blow it out.  Then finally the bathroom sink and shower.  Doing each one separately ensures there is enough air pressure to blow the water out of the pex lines and into the drain system.  Caution:  I always leave the low-point drain valve open when blowing out each individual faucet just to help prevent busting a line with air and that is because my compressor puts out very high psi.  I then remove the air compressor hose and open all faucets so if there's any remaining water, it can hopefully drip through the low-point valve.

Two more things I do to winterize.  One is put a small amount of vegetable oil inside the toilet.  I hope this will keep the rotating plastic valve lubricated.  I've noticed that when I'd previously left water in it, after evaporating, the valve would be stiff from dry rubbing.  I don't want dry on dry rub as that seal is important to keep gas trapped and allow toilet to hold water as needed to conduct business.  I do have one problem and that is with the washer/dryer combo.  It holds trapped water, but is very heavy and in cramped quarters (see my previous blog write up HERE).  So, I've put a 65 watt lightbulb in that small closet.  I've done this with covered outside faucets in the past.  I'll check it to ensure it's on every night it gets below freezing.  That's it.  Another glamorous, but necessary, RV story brought to you by C3.